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This project is totally life changing for us, you guys! A couple weeks ago I shared the DIY handrail we put in on our split level entry stairs. But this… well, this is better. If you’ve lived in a split level entry… you’ll know the biggest challenge is that stinkin’ entry way. It’s usually cramped and you’re REALLY lucky if you get a closet there. We did not. So you basically walk in and if there’s more than one of you (say three kids), you cram onto the entry landing and try close the door (before one of three runs out the door) , then take off your shoes and try not trip on the now 8 shoes in your path to get up the stairs. #perfect

And shoe racks could work, but when it’s this cramped and you need to be able to carry laundry baskets up and down these stairs several times a day (I wish I was kidding), there’s really not room for a nice one. So since we had an unfinished basement to play with, we decided to use that to our advantage and build in some shoe storage. And friends, it’s the best. It is the most shoe storage we have ever had… and I actually had a bookshelf for shoes in our last place. These drawers really hold SO much! And we didn’t lose any space to make them. In the basement, we built closets on either side, so that shoe storage cubby is actually level with the closets instead of having an awkward dead space on between the closet and wall. So really… why wouldn’t we have used it for this?

What do I love about these? Well, I Love that there is NO wasted space. Not only do we keep almost every inch of floorspace for little feet to sit and get shoes on BUT these look pretty darn nice (if I do say so myself). As per usual, we built these drawers using supplies from one of my fave partners- Home Depot but those pulls I ordered special from D. Lawless Hardware and I’m in love! They really finish off the drawers perfectly. Now that the drawers are in and the railing is updated it kind of makes us want to go all traditional and do a full wall moulding treatment to the entry. Buuuut we’re thinking that done is better than taking that on ;) Ready to learn allll about how we did it? And how you can put drawers in your walls too!?

I’m not sure I’m going to do the BEST job explaining it, so again… I’m turning this one over to the brains and the guy that did *most* of the work on these (I did a top notch job painting them). But before that… remember the Before?

Suuuuch an improvement already! Can’t wait to show you guys the final!

Materials:

3/4″ plywood, 4′ x 8′ quantity of two (for the cabinet box). In hindsight, for the sake of esthetics I would prefer MDF
1/2″ plywood, 4′ x 8′ quantity of two (drawer sides, back, and bottom) Again, next time I would definitely used MDF for a cleaner, more finished look
5/8″ MDF (for the faces). We were able to rip all the drawer faces from one 4′ x 8′ sheet
L brackets
Brad Nailer (for assembling drawer bodies)
#6 screws, 1/2″ and 5/8″
Wood Glue, Clear construction adhesive
Drawer slides
Hardware (these are the ones we used)

1. Build in ‘cubbies’

We did this so long ago, you guys so I don’t have photos and instructions- but essentially, you need a place to put these drawers in. We left them just as the cubbies for way too long (so messy!). Cut a hole in your drywall and frame a box (like you would a closet). If you have an unfinished basement, this is pretty easy to do. If not, you’ll need to add drywall on the back (in the basement) to conceal this. Drywall it and slap on some paint to seal it. We had finished ours as if it was going to be open shelving but you don’t need to make the seams all pretty since it will be hidden. We just decided open shelving would look too cluttered too easily.

2. Build your inserts

Let me start by saying we tried to do this project without inserts and it flopped. Why? Well… walls aren’t square in this 1965 house. In fact, they’re totally warped. We got to installing the slides and since they weren’t totally square, the drawers couldn’t shut the whole way or they’d fall off the tracks half way. Totally angering. Unless you’re confident in your squareness of walls… save yourself a headache and build an insert.

The first thing you will need to do Measure and record inside dimensions of the box/cubby. Measure multiple spots to find the smallest measurement of each dimension (width, height, depth) so that the box isn’t larger than the smallest part (so it fits!). Then, go ahead and build the box to insert into the closet opening. Think of this box as the individual cabinet that houses the drawers (just like your kitchen has) that is just inserted into the wall opening. I used “L” brackets at each corner and made a three-sided box (sides and back only), then added small strips along the front (top and bottom) to ensure the front stayed square.

A note from Colleen- TP is NOT the prettiest stuff but you mostly will not see this box. However, I wish I’d given it a sand and painted it before it was installed. You can patch the cut edge of the TP with drywall mud and sand it down for a more even, smooth edge. Or you could just use MDF and be done with it ;)

3. Build your drawers

Cut the pieces for your drawers- depending on the size of your cubby/box this will be different than ours, but for reference our measurements are in the materials section. We just built standard drawers BUT since they’re giant (and heavy) and due to lack of proper joinery tools/experience, I assembled the sides and back using L brackets at each corner. I love L brackets… they’re kind of a cheat but they give me confidence that when my kids decide to climb in, the bottom won’t fall out. Because I know that will happen.

What a great storage solution for a split level entry home! DIY Built in Shoe Storage Drawers

When determining the width of the drawer boxes to be built, ensure to allow clearance for drawer slides (will vary depending on type/style of drawer slide used). In our case we required 1/2″ on either side of the drawer for the drawer slide . The overall inside height of our box was 31″; I built the drawer boxes at 9″ height originally to allow for the drawer face the overhang the drawer box top and bottom and prevent the issue of the drawer boxes rubbing on one another. I also ended up building the top drawer box for each side at only 7″ high to allow for plenty or clearance around the support piece running side-to-side in the box (as mentioned above, this piece is to ensure the box sides stay square and solid). Assemble just the bottom, sides and back of your drawer. Leave the drawer face off for now. We Built the drawers using wood glue and brad nails, then re-enforced with the L brackets.

Our faces were made out of MDF and we routed the edges which give them a more custom look.

After you add the drawer face (when you’re doing the slides), keep this in mind: Since they’re giant, I also ripped supports strips for the bottom to rest on out of 2 x 6 SPF and glued and brad nailed these to the sides and back of the drawers. The bottoms were made out of 1/2″ sanded plywood, and the these bottoms were brad nailed to the support pieces underneath to add extra stability and avoid the bottoms moving around at all inside the drawer boxes.

Once the drawers were assembled (aside from the faces), we painted the drawer boxes and then attached the drawer slide (flush to the front of the drawer box).

4. Install Drawer Slides

We just used the most standard drawer slides available at Home Depot and they work great. I installed the cabinet-mounted portion of the drawer slide on each side of the cabinet box (starting with the bottom drawer), using a level to ensure the slides on the left and right sides of the box were mounted at the same heights. These were mounted flush with the front edge of the cabinet box and about a 1/2″ above the support piece that runs side to side inside the cabinet box.

After installing the drawer in the slides and ensuring smooth opening/closing, it was time to install the drawer face. Insert your assembled drawer on the slides for this step.Drawer faces were cut to be slightly larger than the opening in the wall, so the drawer faces rest on the wall on the sides and at the very top and bottom. Because there was a baseboard (which was level to the floor on its bottom edge and the cabinet box on its top edge), we had a great starting point for spacing the drawer faces. I used a 1/8″ spacer (ie paint stir stick) and rested the drawer face on the paint sticks, on the top edge of the baseboard. Note: The drawer faces were cut at 39″, while the width of the opening in our wall is 38″. This allowed for a 1/2″ of the drawer face on each side to rest against the wall when the drawer is closed) hiding any imperfections on the drywall edge when closed.

I had a second set of hands for this part: person one held the drawer face in place, then person 2 measured to ensure the 1/2″ overhang on each side was accurate, and ran a level along the top of the drawer face to ensure it was level still. Person two then ran a pencil line on the inside face of the drawer front, tracing where it rested against the drawer sides and bottom.

Using the outline marked out in the step above, run small bead of adhesive (we used a clear, construction grade adhesive applied using a caulking gun) just on the outside edge of the pencil line on the inside of the drawer face. The drawer face can then be set in place and attached using L brackets and #6 5/8″ screws.

Repeat these steps for the next drawer up, now resting your spacers on the top edge of the bottom drawer to ensure even spacing for the face of the next drawer up. Repeat for the top drawer, only this time in order to trace out your drawer face location, you will need to open the middle drawer and trace the outside of where the drawer face rests on the drawer box sides and bottom, working from the opening underneath the top drawer that was created by opening the middle drawer.

5. Hardware!

Now it’s time to install your hardware in desired location. We installed the hardware centered on the drawer face. Ours were large pulls with two screws to mount, so we measured the width of the handle (centre to centre from each mounting hole on the handle) and determined the mounting location accordingly on the drawer face.

Colleen again… these drawers are GIANT and I wanted to choose hardware that balanced that. These pulls are perfect and I love how easy they are to open for my kids. You can get them in lots of different lengths at D. Lawless if your drawers aren’t so huge.

That’s it! I know, I say that like it wasn’t a ton of work. But it’s SO worthwhile in a split level. If you’ve ever lived in one you KNOW the pain that these entry ways can be. In fact, we installed them Monday night and Tuesday morning I had a client stop by the house to pick up a custom sign and she commented on them straight away. She wanted to know who built them so she could have them put in her house as well! It’s SO helpful. Since they’ve been done, we walk down the stairs and our entryway feels huge without all the boot mats and shoes piled. It’s unreal the difference it has made.

Now we just have some finishing touches (filling and painting, lighting, painting our new door, adding hooks etc) before we will share the whole entry way reveal and you guys I’m way too excited to reveal such a small space.

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Comments

Kara says

Mar 03 at 7:57 pm

This is a brilliant idea!!! I’m turned off by tight entryways because of the traffic jam of shoes that usually happens, but this is such a smart way to save space!

- Colleen Pastoor says
  
  Mar 13 at 6:11 pm
  
  The shoe traffic jam! It’s a real thing and it’s the worst!!
  
Jason says

Mar 06 at 9:39 am

Ok, standing at our entry saying, hmmm, I wonder what’s behind that wall. Amazing job you guys!

- Colleen Pastoor says
  
  Mar 13 at 6:13 pm
  
  Haha! Right? We were lucky (?) that our basement was unfinished so it was easy to see what was back there!
  
Jayne says

Mar 08 at 3:35 pm

Brilliant !!!!
…and looks great too !
Jayne

- Colleen Pastoor says
  
  Mar 13 at 6:17 pm
  
  Thanks so much Jayne!!
  
Thalita says

Mar 10 at 10:27 am

This is seriously so genius and amazing. I LOVE!!!!

- Colleen Pastoor says
  
  Mar 13 at 6:20 pm
  
  Thanks so much Thalita!
  
shelagh says

Apr 02 at 9:22 am

I’ve been thinking of doing this as well. What does it look like on the other side of the wall? We have a curved wall so probably can’t do both sides. The other side goes into our garage. Thanks!

- Colleen Pastoor says
  
  Apr 25 at 11:08 am
  
  Hi Shelagh, we are SO glad we did it! The other side of the wall we built out a closet (it’s a rec room space on one side and a suite bedroom on the other)- this helps it not look like a random box floating on the top half of the wall. It would be great in your garage!
  
Suzanne says

Feb 20 at 6:10 pm

This is what would make the difference to tip me over the edge when buying a home. Great for resale value!

I have a split ranch and a finished basement so cannot put in full drawers but you’ve given me an idea to add built-in shoe cabinets like this one: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/images/products/stall-shoe-cabinet-with-compartments-white__0246842_PE385713_S4.JPG. There should be plenty of room in the wall itself.

In fact, I currently use one of these shoe cabinets successfully but I am greedy and want MORE storage. And, as a bonus, I want the little touches (big touches) that will make people get excited about buying my house when it’s time to sell.

GREAT JOB!!

Apologies if I triple posted. I had some issues. Please delete duplicates. :D

- Colleen Pastoor says
  
  Feb 27 at 9:29 pm
  
  Thanks so much! I was totally looking at those cabinets before we did this- we just couldn’t fit one with the stairs there!

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Materials:

1. Build in ‘cubbies’

2. Build your inserts

3. Build your drawers

4. Install Drawer Slides

5. Hardware!

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